A workwear icon

The History of the hickory stripe

Few patterns in workwear carry the same quiet authority as the hickory stripe. Instantly recognisable, the fabric has long been associated with graft, grit, and garments built to earn their keep. From American railroads to modern wardrobes, the hickory stripe has travelled a long way without ever losing its honest, hardworking roots.

We introduced this pattern to our lineup a few years ago now and it has since earned its place as a staple amongst our ranges, including our upcoming 2026 Pre-Spring collection, where you will see a new take on the classic.

BORN ON THE RAILROAD

The Hickory stripe traces its roots back to late 19th and early 20th century America, where it became synonymous with railroad workers. The fabric was most commonly used for engineer and conductor overalls, jackets, and caps: clothing designed for long days and hard work.

The name itself is thought to come from hickory wood, a material prized for its toughness and resistance to wear. Much like the wood, hickory stripe fabric was chosen for its durability. Woven most often from hardwearing cotton twill, it stood up to repeated use, frequent washing, and the unforgiving conditions of industrial labour.

Function First: Why the Stripe Matters

Beyond durability, the stripe served a practical purpose. The alternating light and dark lines helped disguise dirt, grease, and soot which was no small consideration for workers spending their days around machinery. Unlike solid fabrics that showed wear quickly, hickory stripes aged gracefully, developing character rather than simply looking worn out.

This focus on function-first design is what cemented the hickory stripe as a cornerstone of authentic workwear. Nothing about it was decorative for decoration’s sake, every element was intentional and existed to serve the wearer.

From Utility to Icon

As the decades passed and heavy industry evolved, the hickory stripe began to move beyond the railroad. Farmers, mechanics, carpenters, and factory workers all adopted the pattern, and by the mid-20th century it had become a visual shorthand for honest workwear.

Later, the rise of vintage collecting and heritage fashion brought renewed attention to these garments. Old railroad jackets and overalls - often faded, repaired, and softened by years of wear - became highly sought after, admired not just for how they looked, but for the stories they carried.

Hickory Stripe in Modern Workwear

Today, the hickory stripe lives at the intersection of past and present. While the environments may have changed, the values remain the same: durability, practicality, and timeless design. Modern interpretations retain the integrity of the original fabric while refining the fit and finish for everyday wear.

Whether cut into chore jackets, utility trousers, or contemporary silhouettes, hickory stripes continue to offer a sense of authenticity that can’t be replicated.

We first introduced hickory stripes into the P&Co lineup back in 2023 as part of a collaboration with influencer and model Trix Eden Breuls. Deeply immersed in vintage workwear culture, Trix came to the project with moodboards filled with utilitarian silhouettes and a collection of well-worn, archive workwear books that made one thing clear: hickory stripes had to play a role. The result was a small but considered run of pieces rooted in tradition, including classic navy-and-white hickory stripe dungarees, a matching reversible bucket hat, and a standout pair of red hickory stripe pants. It was our first step into the stripe and one that laid the foundations for future staples like our Hickory Stripe Chore Jackets and Nomad Pants today.

Hickory stripe isn’t a trend, it’s a tradition: a fabric born from necessity, shaped by labour, and carried forward by those who value clothing with meaning and a story.

A Pattern That Earns Its Place

Hickory stripe isn’t a trend, it’s a tradition: a fabric born from necessity, shaped by labour, and carried forward by those who value clothing with meaning and a story.

As we revisit and rework this classic stripe today, we do so with respect for where it came from, creating pieces that nod to the past while being built for the here and now. Because some patterns don’t need reinventing. They just need wearing.

Sawyer Pants - Black

Cord Service Fatigue Pants - Woodland Green

Hold Fast 5 Panel Cap - Ecru

Albion Carpenter Pant - Black

Sawyer Pants - Stone

Service Fatigue Pants - Stone Checkerboard

Grace Barrel Leg Jean - Blue Hickory

Vyse Chore Jacket - Blue Hickory

Barstow Denim Jean - Hickory Stripe

Vyse Chore Jacket - French Blue

Albion Carpenter Pant - Ecru

Albion Straight Fit Carpenter Pant - Bone

Service Fatigue Pants - Rust Checkerboard